Hello from Kotoka Airport!
I am currently relaxing in the Sanbra Priority lounge before boarding my direct Delta flight back to JFK. I just spent the last week in Ghana, shuttling in between the capital, Accra, and the Cape Coast, the place many slaves said their final goodbyes to their homeland before being forcefully shipped to lands unknown.
If that sounds grim, then you’ll be prepared for Ghana. While the country has many ‘vacation’ worthy parts, for African Americans, it will be more about educating yourself on where you come from. As they say, you have to know where you began to know where you’re going.
I have so much to say, and not much time, so let’s get to it!
1. How to Get There
You have to really, REALLY, really want to go to Ghana because it takes quite a bit of effort to get there!! You’ll need a visa, and you’ll need to plan well in advance to get one. The process can seem daunting because you, like me, will most likely wait until the last minute! And you, like me, will try to call or access the website for your local Ghanaian consulate, and get frustrated when the website doesn’t take appointments and no-one answers the phone. But don’t despair! If you’re in New York, just go to the Ghana Consulate (it’s located at 19 East 47th Street), Monday-Thursday from 10am-3pm. I showed up there the Tuesday before my Monday departure, and was able to get a Visa in time. You’ll have to pay extra to get the whole process expedited (the fee is $160), and you’ll have to shuttle back and forth to midtown. You’ll also need a litany of documents, outlining where you’re staying, who is hosting you, and all grades of other information. AND you’ll need your yellow fever and Covid vaccines. It will feel like you’re completing a midterm exam, but you can do it! And if you wait to the last minute, you won’t be the first or last person to do this (my whole family, including my very responsible mother, waited until the very last second to get this done). If you’re not in New York, I’d go to your local consulate (if there is one) or try to fly to New York. Otherwise definitely plan to get your visa at least 3-6 weeks before you leave.
Once you have your visa in hand (and get your temperature taken at the gate!), the direct Delta flight to Accra from New York is 9-10 hours. If you can, budget to sit in first class! I flew in Economy Plus on my way there, and dealt with an ornery seat mate (my mother) who elbowed me the whole time (did I mention there was also a screaming baby behind me?). After my trauma, I upgraded. I’d suggest calling the airline for the best rate. It made a WORLD of difference. My flight going and coming left around 10pm at night so you can just sleep, read, or watch movies for the whole flight and get off the plane relaxed.
All that to say, you can get to Ghana with ease, but a little planning will take you a long way.
2. Where to Stay
So my brother organized the whole trip! His friends told him that you can stay at okay hotels that are very expensive, or go for a fabulous Air BNB for the same price. We ended up staying at Lusso Private Residences, which was very nice! Find them on AirBNB here.
Our AirBNB had 5 rooms, which each had its own bathroom. It had two pretty large ‘master’ bedrooms (do we still call it that?), and the other three rooms held full sized beds. The place was very nicely and thoughtfully decorated. A maid came and cleaned twice a week, and everything was very secure. Aside from almost accidentally being an extra in a music video that was being filmed on the ground floor during our stay, the residences were clean, quiet, and nice. I’d recommend them!
After spending a few days in Accra, my family and I went to the Cape Coast to see the slave castles (the places where many slaves were shipped abroad–more on that later). While on Cape Coast, we stayed at Coconut Grove, which was also lovely. I personally appreciated the Coconut Grove Hotel because it was by the ocean, had a gorgeous pool, and a relaxing atmosphere.
I’ll say this about accommodations in general in Ghana: don’t expect a lot of “frills” i.e. the bed at Coconut Grove had just a single sheet on it, we had to flip a switch in our Air BNB for hot water, also the tub leaked–small things. Also, forget about fast Wifi! We had Wifi in theory at both places, but it was slow. This isn’t a place you come to search the net or upload to Instagram (though Lord knows I tried!). But you’ll learn that when you travel to certain countries, there are just a few things that won’t be what you’re used to. But it’s cool! Just a Heads Up.
3. What to Do
Ghana gained its liberation in 1957, so a must visit is Black Star square, which commemorates this occasion. A large star atop the arch in Black Star Square is a tribute to Civil Rights leader Marcus Garvey. What I love about visiting black countries that there is so much unabashed black pride and reverence/respect for our leaders. While in Cape Coast, we visited the W.E.B. Dubois museum, which had a wall full of photos of Civil Rights Icons like Rosa Parks, Malcolm X, and Martin Luther King, people who were so significant in our history, but we rarely hear about in large ways in our country. A museum with Malcolm X and Marcus Garvey on the wall certainly makes you puff up your chest.
Many Americans come to Ghana to go to the Cape Coast and see where their ancestors undoubtedly left Africa before being shipped to the Americas, Brazil, the Caribbean, or elsewhere. I’d certainly recommend a tour guide. We used Afia Tours, and they were fantastic. The Tour Guides were friendly and knowledgable, and will take you wherever you need to go. While in Accra, we went to the Botanical Gardens and to a place called Peduase Valley Resort for a vibrant lunch on Founders day. When we went outside of the city, we went to Kakum National Park and walked high atop the trees!
Then we made our way to the slave castles, where we learned about our history. I would definitely recommend getting a tour guide for all or part of your trip so that you’ll be super informed about everything you’re seeing and experiencing. I definitely would not ever recommend going alone or without knowing anyone. I actually don’t think you can go alone, as part of your Visa application requires you to have a host. I’d suggest going with a group so you can experience the beauty and rich culture of Ghana together.
4. What to Eat
I love African food. Love love love. It’s so spicy and flavorful!!! A few scrumptious restaurants in Accra were Honeysuckle, Jamestown Coffee, and Buka. Outside of Accra, we went to Mable’s table. I’d recommend getting Jollof rice, Chicken Yassa, and peppered snails. I inhaled everything, and did not get sick (which has not always been the case for me). Of course I hate to compare and contrast, but while in Europe, the food was just ok. In Ghana, the food was spectacular! It was definitely one of the highlights of the trip for me (haha).
5. How to Get Around
Good news: There’s Uber! But there are no Uber Lux or Black… and Comfort takes forever. Regular Ubers work just fine, but get ready for the smallest cars you’ve ever seen. Also, be ready for drivers to ask to be paid in cash (I’d actually recommend this anyway. Though Ubers are cheap, the additional international transactions fees can double the cost). It might be worth it to hire a driver! We asked about and heard quotes for about $80 a day. And of course, with tour companies, transportation is included!
6. General Observations/Misc
Ghana is quite safe, and everyone we encountered was kind and friendly! There are going to be a few things to get used to, including slow wifi, unpaved roads, things being closed when the internet says they’re open (shout out to Osu Castle), restaurants being out of half of the menu, and people selling literally anything under the sun on the road (while in Ghana, I saw street vendors go in between cars selling water, gum, sunglasses, pillows, and even door mats! Ghanaians are industrious folks!). Service can be slow, but the food is ahmazing. Tipping is standard and appreciated. Prepared to get patted down and searched like you’ve never been before at the airport (and also for airport workers to ask you for money for doing things like opening your bag (this is illegal, and there are many announcements over the loud system about this. But that did not stop the woman at TSA, who asked me for 100 cedis for rifling through my bag!). When you go to Ghana, prepare for warmth, sun, and posters of loved one who have passed away everywhere. But perhaps one of the best parts of Ghana: no mosquitos!!! And y’all know about me and mosquitos. We are not friends.
Let me know your thoughts and experiences in the comments.
Love & Light,
Adwoa Pomaa (My new Ghanaian name, which means Pillar and Strong).
